Visiting Forts and Palaces: Jaigarh and Nahargarh, Jaipur

I've always been fascinated by Rajasthan. Images of maharajas and maharanis, palaces, forts, elephants and camels float through my mind. So I decided to visit two of the most enchanting fortresses around Jaipur - Jaigarh and Nahargarh. High above Jaipur, the city's noise and pollution are almost forgotten. The commanding heights of these forts invite Rajasthan's dry winter to bring its crisp clean air and shower all with brilliant sunshine.

It took about five hours to reach the Amer area of Jaipur from Delhi. Both Jaigarh and Nahargarh are approached from the same road that cuts through the hills and ravines near Amer (Amber) Palace. The scenery was spectacular as we wound our way upwards. Jaipur with its Jal Mahal could be seen in the distance. Amber Fort and Palace were below at our feet. Brown hills and the City of Jaipur glistened in the sun beyond.

Jaigarh

Langur monkeys, the distractable sentries of the modern era, greeted us at the gates of Jaigarh. The fortress's immense walls stared at us up close, forbidding and inviting at the same time. Cars are allowed inside the 1100 year old fort complex with a parking permit.

The "Jaivana" cannon, the world's largest cannon on wheels, could be seen as soon as we entered. We walked the perimeter of the fort on walls which are thick enough to allow an elephant to saunter through. We ambled through different sections of the fort - approaching from above the reservoir where the soldiers who lit the fuse for the Jaivana had to hide to escape its booming noise. We circumabulated the Shiva temple and explored the inner palace where the king and his courtiers used to discuss strategy and war as well as entertain themselves. The palace within the fortress flaunted its gorgeous gardens, fountains, durbar halls, courtyards, dining halls, kitchens, a puppet theater, with stunning views of the sky, and elaborate living quarters. Among ancient hills and valleys, Jaigarh offered an amazing journey back into time. After enjoying a late afternoon picnic, we wished we had more time to visit the museum of the fort. The museum highlights the metal work of the resident foundry: an endless parade of guns and ammunition from the era of Rajputs.

Nahargarh

Nahargarh fort, built in 1734 by Sawai Raja Jai Singh, is situated on the ridges of the rolling Aravalli range. An enchanting mix of colors has been used for intricate hand painted wall designs throughout the palace rooms. A striking combination of pastels with woodwork and mirrors embodies the hallmark of Rajasthani architecture. Courtyards and hallways, cool and serene, were all part of the excitement of wandering through these lost places in time. The bells of the Nagesh (king of the "nagas" snakes) temple on the perimeter of the fort invited a steady stream of visitors.

Both forts offered views from the Aravalli ridges that are simply breathtaking. The sight of Man Sagar lake in which the Jal Mahal of Jaipur stands was spectacular in the glowing sunset.

These forts and palaces make great treks for short excursions. Lots to see and enjoy!